D.O.C. on St Kilda Esplanade
Melbourne-born second-generation Italian Michael Costanzo founded D.O.C Espresso Bar on Lygon Street in 2003. He quickly earned acclaim as the artisan pizza godfather, with now seven venues across Victoria.
Costanzo’s latest endeavour embodies the original essence of D.O.C, amalgamating elements of its sibling venues into a 100-seat diner docked on St Kilda’s esplanade. When the opportunity arose to establish a presence in one of Melbourne’s cultural hubs, Costanzo seized it without hesitation, confident that D.O.C would integrate well with St Kilda’s reputation as a bohemian mecca and tourist hotspot. Residing within the luxurious Saint Moritz residences, the restaurant fulfils Costanzo’s long-standing vision of creating an elevated yet casual ristorante. With an elegant backdrop and highlevel service, the restaurant represents a modern interpretation of its original venue, offering a dining experience that epitomises D.O.C’s culinary prowess.
The St Kilda venture may adopt a different approach to its sister venues, yet its mission, represented in the name D.O.C, remains unchanged. Derived from the motherland, D.O.C is an abbreviation of Denominazione di Origine Controllata, translating to ‘controlled designation of origin.’ It signifies a mark of quality assurance, guaranteeing a product’s origin from a specific region and adherence to strict production methods. True to this ethos, D.O.C ensures the use of highquality local and seasonal ingredients throughout its menu. By collaborating with local importers, the restaurant sources Italian specialty items, such as San Daniele prosciutto, Tuscan olives and the finest Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. D.O.C prioritises sourcing fruits, vegetables, meats and seafood locally, while its cheeses and cold cuts are crafted by artisans in Victoria. This commitment to quality extends to working with small-batch producers, ensuring access to unique produce.
The venue’s colour palette is an ode to the Italian flag, featuring Ferrarired accents interspersed with pops of olive green, notably showcased in the distinctive bubble-like couch seating. Balancing elegance with modesty, asymmetrical marble benches and minimalist furnishings define the space. With a semi-open kitchen, diners can enjoy views of the culinary artistry, accompanied by the tantalising aromas of freshly prepared pasta sauce and pizzas baking in the oven, evoking the intimacy and charm of Italy’s trattorias.
The service is elevated, and the ambience is refined, but the most notable difference is the structure of the menu. Meticulously crafted by the executive chef of the D.O.C group, Tom Jones Davies, alongside Costanzo and the D.O.C team, the menu adheres to the traditional Italian eating structure— antipasti, secondi and contorni— resembling the leisurely pace of a long lunch at nonna's house. With Neapolitan and Calabrian roots, bringing this traditional dining approach to D.O.C’s tables has been a long-held aspiration for Costanzo. The experience of sharing a meal with family, where plates are placed in the centre and everyone selects a few dishes, reflects Costanzo’s upbringing in a large Italian family.
Costanzo’s personal menu favourites mirror this sentiment, he gravitates towards the ‘Greg’ cocktail, a tribute to his late father that has become a permanent fixture on the menu. For pasta, he opts for the ‘Campanelle with duck and Montenegro ragú,’ followed by the ‘Tagliata’ featuring Gippsland striploin with rucola, Parmigiano Reggiano and aged balsamic for secondo. No meal is complete for Costanzo without indulging in the classic D.O.C staple, tiramisu.
While signature D.O.C dishes like the Pizza San Daniele, the three veal and pork polpette, and the tiramisú remain steadfast menu items, the St Kilda venue offers a more contemporary take on traditional favourites. Reflecting the progressive evolution of Italian cuisine, dishes like ‘Barramundi Crudo,’ featuring a citrus cured barramundi with orange and pomegranate, and the ‘Capasanta,’ showcasing torched Canadian scallop served with fennel cream and chilli pangrattato, reimagine dishes steeped in centuries-old heritage.
At the bar patrons can indulge in focaccia, oysters and fritto misto—ideal appetizers to accompany an Aperol spritz for a true aperitivo experience. Even though antipasti, secondi and contorni take centre stage on the St. Kilda menu, there’s also an extensive selection of pizzas, totalling 11 options. Each pizza features fewer than five toppings—an indication of authenticity in Italian pizza-making, characterised by simplicity, with a thin, crispy crust— the hallmark of true pizzaiolos.
To guide patrons through Italy’s renowned wine regions, D.O.C St Kilda features a detailed map of Italy to indicate where its top-shelf wines are produced, allowing guests to visually trace the origin of each drop within the boot-shaped country. Italian wines are intrinsically linked to specific geographic areas, influenced by factors like soil, climate, and terrain, which shape their quality and characteristics. Costanzo believes in the importance of showcasing regionally diverse wines to uphold the principles of Denominazione di Origine Controllata.
Although the wine list is novellike, patrons can expect a variety of traditional spritzes, including the lesserknown Hugo spritz, which holds its own, particularly in the north of Italy, alongside popular choices like Aperol. And, as highlighted by Costanzo, an authentic Italian dinner would not be complete without capping off the night with a digestivo such as Limoncello or Amaro Montenegro.
Cover: D.O.C. St Kilda - Pizza & Pasta Bar
Images provided by D.O.C. Group
