The origins of Calabrian cuisine

Calabria is the southernmost region of mainland Italy, hugged by the Ionian and Tyrrhenian Seas. It occupies the “toe” of the Italian boot. With 780 kilometers of craggy coastline, extensive fertile plains, and 630,000 hectares of soaring mountains, Calabria’s cuisine is influenced as much by its varied landscapes as by its long history of absorbing foreign influences from the invaders and traders drawn to its shores over millennia.

Calabria was home to numerous prosperous ancient Greek colonies before becoming a province of the Roman Empire. After falling to the Ostrogoths upon the collapse of the Empire, Calabria would be taken by the Byzantines under Justinian who in their turn were supplanted by the Normans. While never establishing dominance over Calabria like they had in Sicily, the Arabs did establish some fortified settlements along the coast from which they exerted limited control and engaged in trade. Falling under the dominion of the Spanish in the 15th century and becoming a key province of the cosmopolitan Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, Calabria’s proximity to the coast of North Africa, hugging the sea lanes of the Strait of Messina has meant that the region has always been at the intersection of civilizations each one leaving a culinary legacy. Each wave of rulers has affected the region not only culturally but also economically.

Descending from the lofty heights of the region’s shifting courtly traditions, however, we realize that Calabria’s core cuisine is essentially una cucina povera, a culinary ethos born from peasant traditions. Simple yet ingenious, Calabrian cooking transformed frugality and humble ingredients into culinary specialties that have endured generations. Calabria has five provinces, each one boasting a unique culinary tradition. However, there is one common thread that unites the delicacies of each locale–a dedication to lavish antipasti consisting of light morsels, combining modest ingredients, including eggplant or mushrooms preserved in oil, local olives, various kinds of cheese, and cured meats, each region, of course, emphasizing the gems of its local agricultural and artisanal culinary traditions.
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Separated from Sicily by the Strait of Messina and from Puglia by the Gulf of Taranto, Calabria is surrounded by the sea, offering ample seafood opportunities in coastal towns. Meanwhile, verdant plains and nutrient-rich soil allow for the cultivation of a dizzying variety of heirloom fruits, vegetables, and herbs, many of which, like the Tropea red onion, can be found nowhere else. The culinary specialties in the province of Cosenza in north Calabria are largely intertwined with its seaside location. Freshly caught seafood, including swordfish, cod, and sardines, forms the cornerstone of local dishes, reflecting venerable traditions of swordfish fishing dating back to the second century.

A dish deriving from this tradition, ‘Pesce Spada Alla Ghiotta,’ epitomizes this maritime heritage. Consisting of a succulent steak of fish stewed in a medley of tomatoes, olives, capers, and fragrant herbs, the delicacy is quintessentially Mediterranean. Inland, steep mountains are home to flocks of hill-loving animals, contributing to comforting dishes centered around meats and cheese. Despite its coastal location, Cosenza offers a “hearty” dish (literally). Mazzacorde alla cosentina is a popular local delicacy featuring lamb entrails–tripe, lung, heart, spleen, and intestines–seasoned with garlic, tomatoes, basil, oregano, and spicy red chili pepper showcasing the region’s bold and rustic flavors.
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The cuisine of the Catanzaro province, in the hills of central Calabria, stands as a testament to agricultural excellence. The province’s fertile land yields a bounty of fresh produce, including peppers, potatoes, olives, grapes, beans, asparagus, artichokes, beans, and a range of legumes — all of which are Calabrian agricultural specialties. However, it is the tomato and eggplant that reign supreme, forming the basis of many traditional dishes, including Melanzane alla Calabrese, a rustic dish made from simple ingredients. Slices of eggplant are layered with tomatoes, basil, and Pecorino cheese before being baked to crisp perfection in the oven.

Exemplifying la cucina povera, another local dish is Bucatini mollicata. This timeless recipe, handed down through generations, sees bucatini pasta — thick hollow spaghetti-like strands resembling narrow straws — tossed in a sauce of salt-cured anchovies, garlic, chili pepper, olive oil, bread crumbs, and Pecorino cheese.
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Descending into the southern province of Reggio Calabria, the landscape gives way to undulating hills and mountainous crags, with the pastoral lifestyle of its inhabitants shaping the local cuisine. The terrain is ideal for the production of Caciocavallo Silano, a semi-hard cheese made from cow’s milk aged in the area’s caves. The distinct flavour of this local cheese complements home-made bread and cured meats, including capocollo and sopressata—a spicy, smokey Calabrian sausage. Another local product, Butirro, a pear-shaped kneaded-curd cheese, exudes a delicate scent of flowers and fruits and is highly prized by locals. Characterized by its stringy texture, the exterior is solid cheese, while the core is like pure butter. Turning to sweets, Petrali is a tribute to both la cucina povera and Reggio Calabria’s imperial history. These crescent-shaped shortbread biscuits filled with various fillings, from dried fruit to hazelnut cream, bear witness to Calabria’s Arab influence. Traditionally prepared in December for the Christmas period, these biscuits, like many deriving from peasant origins, are the result of pantry remnants.

Calabria’s humid climate has influenced preservation techniques, including salting, curing, and smoking, which have given rise to many regional cured meats and ‘Nduja. This spicy spreadable salami has gained popularity both within Italy and internationally. Another traditional preservation method, known as sottʼolio or “under oil,” involves preserving vegetables in olive oil. These age-old techniques, dating back thousands of years, played a crucial role in helping locals survive long periods of famine.
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Despite being deeply rooted in Imperial history and influenced by diverse rulers, Calabria’s time-honoured culinary traditions do not impede its capacity to embrace innovation and adaptation. While recipes from bygone eras continue to be cherished and preserved, both chefs and home cooks alike are not afraid to explore new ingredients and techniques, resulting in a fusion of traditional and contemporary influences. Calabrian cuisine integrates both local and nonnative foods, including dried figs, licorice, Tropea red onions, Sila caciocavallo cheese, and bergamot— the signature Calabrian orange used in sweets, granitas, savory seasonings, alcoholic beverages, and even aromatherapy.

As Calabria continues to open up to the modern world, there is a renewed emphasis on enshrining its culinary heritage, preserving traditional recipes, and promoting local ingredients to ensure its gastronomic legacy withstands future generations. Steeped in history, geography, and cultural diversity, Calabria’s culinary traditions are a source of immense pride for the locals who savour and share them.

Cover image: Praia a Mare, in the Province of Cosenza