A leisurely trip along the Via Aurelia
Taking in the Tuscan and Ligurian coast by car. It was the trip I had long planned: to travel around Italy by car, stopping in as many towns as possible.
Rome was a natural starting point. I arrived late in the day; the sun had already set, and the twinkling yellow lights were beginning to glow. In town for a mere 24 hours, I was keen to squeeze in as much as possible. I dropped my luggage at the hotel and walked, stumbling across a little trattoria around the corner from where I was staying. It was 10 p.m., and a simple plate of pasta and a glass of chianti never tasted so good.
Still adjusting to the time zones, I awoke to the birds chirping at 5 a.m. the next morning. Still dark outside, I could barely wait for dawn to break as I watched the few stars still visible dimly twinkle from my window. The moon slowly disappeared, and the sky turned from a deep navy to royal blue, providing a magnificent canvas for the soft hue of golden lights on the church I could see in the distance.
Still not quite sure where exactly my hotel was situated, knowing only that it was in the “heart” of Rome. The location turned out to be a dream choice. I set off around 6.30 a.m. and walked down the cobblestone lane. Within minutes, the ruins of the majestic Colosseum came into view. The beauty of wandering around a city full of archaeological splendor before dawn is that you can get up close and personal before the crowds of tourists descend on the city. I’ve seen the sights of Rome on a previous visit, but never like this. After a delicious breakfast overlooking the Colosseum at my hotel’s partner property, Palazzo Manfredi (which boasts the Michelin-starred restaurant, Aroma), I wandered around the eternal city before heading off to begin my adventures.
With the sunshine and a gentle breeze as my travel companions, I started my journey following one of Ancient Rome’s most important highways, the coastal Via Aurelia, that connects Pisa to Rome. The road snaked northwards through a series of tunnels carved out of mountainous rock, and finally, the sparkling Mediterranean came into view. Enjoying the ever-changing landscape, I slowly made my way through the ever-changing landscapes of the Tuscan coast before crossing into Liguria.
I journey through more quaint villages and seaside towns until I see the sign for Santa Margherita and the Imperiale Palace Hotel set high up on the hill. Complete with Bulgari amenities and sweeping views across the sea from the dining areas, this hotel is a perfect alternative to being in the center of Portofino. The leisurely 20-minute walk at dusk along the promenade is worth every step. I pass the ferry terminal, where visitors can take a short trip to Le Cinque Terre or Portofino. A statue of the city’s patron saint, Santa Margherita–with her arms spread wide–stands at the edge of the water looking out to sea. She keeps a watchful eye over the local fishermen here. Dinner was at Giacomo Bistro, a sister restaurant to the Milan institution by the same name, overlooking the setting sun across the water. With a focus on fresh, local seafood, the red prawn tartare with mandarin sorbet and tortelli with lime and bottarga were heavenly.
After a good night’s sleep, the next morning, I headed further inland toward my final destination of this trip, the historical town of Lucca, beloved by music and art lovers. Intact Renaissance-era walls and ramparts surround the charming historical center of Lucca. The impressive fortifications are topped with a tree-lined pedestrianized road that can be walked or cycled to enjoy views of the city and the blue silhouette of the Alpi Apuane in the distance–perfect for an evening passeggiata. Among Lucca’s many charming piazzas is Piazza Puccini, adorned with a seated bronze statue of the Lucchese composer in front of his historical home and an oblong piazza built over the Roman amphitheater. Lucca is home to several stunning Romanesque churches, including San Martino, which houses the Volto Santo, a wood carving of Christ from Palestine that dates to late antiquity and was brought to Lucca in the 8th century, San Frediano with its beautiful golden mosaic façade, and San Michele in Foro, a cacophony of pink, white and green marble columns and sculptures in the main piazza of the city built over the site of the Roman forum.
I stayed in Palazzo Tucci–a 17th-century palace and once family home of the Tucci family. Still owned by a descendant of the original Tucci residents, Alessandro greeted me with a friendly smile, providing a brief overview of the building’s regal history. In the hallway hung a painting depicting an impressive family tree dating back to the 13th century. My room–the former ballroom measured an impressive 75 m2. Breakfast was a traditional Italian spread of cold meats, cheeses, and pastries, set in a large room featuring magnificent paintings and frescoes. After exploring some of the beautiful villages around Lucca, it was time to head to Florence, catch the train to Rome, and head home. As the trip of my dreams ended, I took many memories home and made plans to return and continue my journey where I left off.
Cover image: Colosseo at dawn, Rome
Photography by Catherine Cervasio
