Flavours without borders

by Catherine Cervasio | Images provided by Catherine Cervasio

In the Sydney suburb of Paddington, nestled among tree-lined streets and rows of Victorian-style terraces adorned with ornate wrought iron balconies, lies a local gem serving exquisite Italian fare with a global twist.

The Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House aside, Paddington is a tourist hotspot, home to Oxford Street’s famed retail precinct, the long-running Paddington Markets, held every Saturday since 1973, a legion of contemporary art galleries, and the vibrant Fiveways intersection, often considered the beating heart of the area. It is also home to Civico 47, where executive chef Matteo Zamboni infuses traditional Italian dishes with exotic flavours drawn from his world-hopping culinary experiences.

Zamboni grew up in a small rural town in Brescia, a province of Lombardy in Italy’s north. Brescia is the second largest wine producer in Lombardy, boasting ten areas awarded the “D.O.C.” denomination, yet the province is particularly renowned for its artisanal salami-making, producing specialties such Sopressata, Rosetta, and of course Salame Bresciano.

Although Brescian food and wine loomed large in Zamboni’s childhood, he recalls only one dish that may have led him into the world of hospitality—Spiedo Bresciano. Deeply tied to Brescia, especially around Lake Garda, this traditional dish features an assortment of meats, all prepared the day before, then skewered and slow-cooked for up to five hours. Often reserved for special occasions, the cooking process, which began at 7 am, brought families together. “Every family in the area had a spit for this very purpose,” says Zamboni.

Zamboni trained in hospitality for five years, including an early stint at Ristorante Cracco in Milan, led by celebrity chef Carlo Cracco, where he refined his skills in elevating classic Milanese dishes. Over the next decade, he worked in various commercial kitchens across Italy, eventually landing in Rome at the Michelin-starred La Pergola. Reflecting on that time, Zamboni recalls, “They were really tough days; the culture was very different to what it is now.” But the experience was worth it, as it was during this period that he met people from abroad who opened his eyes to working overseas. 

With a burning desire to travel, Zamboni seized the opportunity to cook Italian cuisine for the Qatari Royal Family. He describes the experience as “an amazing window into how different cultures live.” He was offered a permanent position in Qatar, but he declined, eager to continue travelling and learning. 

Zamboni, along with his wife Claudia, eventually landed in Australia, and initially planned to stay for only a year on a working visa. That plan changed as his reputation grew while working at restaurants Quay at The Rocks and Ormeggio at The Spit. Then, an opportunity arose to extend his visa when he accepted a role as head chef at Pilu at Freshwater. He never thought he would end up staying in Australia indefinitely. But, upon reflection, Zamboni realised he loved Sydney’s surf culture, and with his wife now pursuing studies here, it made sense to make Australia home. They embraced their new life by welcoming their first child not long after.

Zamboni then spent four years as executive chef of Jonah’s Restaurant in Palm Beach before being enticed to the same role at Civico 47 (Italian for house number 47), which occupies the former site of Lucio’s, a beloved Paddington institution for nearly four decades. 

Whilst the dishes at Civico 47 honour his Italian heritage—such as toothfish baccala and corzetti stampati (embossed egg pasta medallions from the Liguira region)—Zamboni avoids strictly sticking to tradition. Instead, he creates innovative combinations inspired by his global culinary experience. He emphasises, however, that “different is not enough; each dish must be great, it must be well received by our diners.”

A signature dish driven by his clientele is dry aged duck breast, finished with mandarin oil dressing, witlof and mizuma (Japanese mustard greens). The complex and delicate flavours of this dish reflect Zamboni’s exploration of broader culinary styles. With a focus on Australian and New Zealand seafood and meat, the menu at Civico 47 embraces international nuances, incorporating ingredients such as miso, yuzu (a Chinese citrus fruit), snake beans and koji berries. “While there will always be a strong Italian influence due to my heritage, it will come with a twist. If customers like what they eat, we are doing something right—ultimately, they are the judges.”

What Zamboni loves most about Civico 47 is the sense of community with his clientele. “I love seeing the locals and often I see the same people daily, whether it’s on the street walking their dog or they’re enjoying a meal with us. I believe restaurants are a way to connect people, and that’s something really special about my job.” He underscores the importance of the restaurant’s open kitchen, saying, “This environment allows me to talk to people and learn from them. It’s more than just serving customers and taking their money—it’s about making connections and creating a positive experience.”

Testament to “doing something right” is the fact that Civico 47 has received a Chef’s Hat from the Australian Good Food Guide every year since its opening. But “doing something right” is also about “doing something meaningful.” 

Zamboni is no stranger to the spotlight, with multiple television appearances and ambassador roles for various brands, including Italian cheese makers Floridia, since his arrival in Australia. However, his most significant role emerged after the premature birth of his second child, Alessia, who spent six weeks in a neonatal intensive care unit. Grateful for the care and support they received, he and his wife wanted to give back. As a result, Zamboni became an ambassador for the Miracle Babies Foundation.

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