Italian cuisine beyond borders
The @finefoodexpo is underway in Melbourne where Italian gastronomic is safeguarded by international and national organizations as well as new-generation chefs such as Michelin-starred and multi-award winner Luca Ciano.
When you hear "“Made in Italy," you probably think of fashion and cars, but the number 1 most counterfeit Italian product around the world is actually parmigiano reggiano, usually sold as parmesan. Many other Italian foods, such as prosciutto di Parma, are so famous that when we go shopping to buy some cheese to grate on our pasta dishes or some prosciutto to add to our aperitivo plate, we risk buying products that have little to do with the authentic ones, in the same way we risk buying a fake Gucci scarf or Prada handbag.
As a food enthusiast, whether cooking for his family, his friends, or his restaurants, chef Luca Ciano is always searching for the best ingredients, whether they are from Italy or not, whether they are certified or not. Going to the local farmers' markets in Sydney's outer suburbs or buying mountain cheese from a small producer on the Italian Alps are experiences he cherishes as much as supporting famous Italian brands.
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Such famous brands often carry labels such as DOC, DOP, IGP, which guarantee that the products are made according to tradition, location, and quality. Considering the increasing popularity of "“Italian cuisine" abroad, Italian producers felt the pressing need to protect the local culinary reputation, fighting the circulation of counterfeit products and empowering the consumers with a meaningful gastronomic education. In fact, these labels of "“origin denomination," were introduced by the European Union to safeguard the products and their producers from unfair competition and to ensure their survival. In terms of these denominations, Italy holds the record in Europe: according to ISTAT reports in 2019, the European Union recognizes 300 quality seals to Italian products, and the number keeps on increasing every year.
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While ham made with legs that are not from a certain species of pig, nor curated in a particular manner, does not necessarily mean that the product will be of low quality, it certainly cannot be called prosciutto di Parma, in the same way that a parmesan cheese made with milk from other regions or countries and aged in different ways might be very tasty, but cannot be considered parmigiano reggiano.
Similarly, tomatoes can grow in greenhouses everywhere and all year round, but the pomodoro di San Marzano gained its reputation because of its deliciousness, which is granted by the soil, the climate, and other factors that are typical only of that geographical area.
One of the limits is that obtaining such seals entails a cost that not all Italian producers can afford to pay; therefore, it is important that customers do not dismiss Italian products that are not officially recognized as inauthentic or not delicious. This message is very important to Luca, who spends a lot of time getting to know and working with local producers, both in Italy and in Australia. "“Keep it simple, fresh and especially seasonal," is his motto and it clearly represents his ethos.
In particular, he notices that his customers in Australia greatly value the logo "“Made in Australia," even though this only certifies that the product originates somewhere undefined in the country, while the European and Italian systems of quality control are much more specific, and European and Italian customers are more accustomed to reading this kind of labels.
Although these certifications provide little help in choosing a good product, the food industry is difficult to navigate: Luca's mission is to divulge reliable information to importers, wholesalers, retailers, and private clients alike, so that food that is made in Italy can be appreciated in its original taste, and not through other versions, which nonetheless might be equally legitimate and delicious.
What has been a mission for international organizations (such as the European Union), national organizations (such as the Italian Trade Agency), and events like Fine Food, together with farmers and growers, is reflected in the food panorama today: the new-generation Italian restaurants and chefs, like Luca Ciano, have an important role in presenting a modern authentic Italianness that never ceases to amaze even the connoisseurs and play an active and educated role in the culinary and gastronomical scene and food selection process.
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